Friday, November 18, 2011

Acne & Acne Triggers

Genetics and Clogged Pores



Clogged pores are caused by a number of factors, including retention hyperkeratosis and sebaceous filaments. Retention Hyperkeratosis  is a hereditary factor in which dead skin cells don't shed from the follicles as they do on normal skin. Excessive sebum (oil) production can over tax the follicle causing more buildup. Sebum mixed with dead skin cells cause the follicle to form comedos (blackheads or whiteheads) blocking the the follicle (pores). While these may not be inflamed are the start of acne problems.

The good news is if you go to an esthetician we can do extractions and help clear the impaction, we have special tools and know the correct way to remove them without damaging the follicle and preventing post inflammation hyper-pigmentation which is how you get scarring from trying to POP pimples or remove blackheads on your own.

That being said, I know most of you have tried popping zits and tried removing blackheads. When you feel a popping sensation under the skin, what you have really done is ruptured the follicle wall. That is NOT good!  It causes scarring and damage to the  collagen and elastin which are not easily replaced!

So please do not try doing this yourself. Leave it to us!

We can also help your blemishes before trying to get medications from a doctor. If we feel like you need more care than we can give you, we will then suggest you to see a dermatologist.

There are two types of follicles or pores in the skin. One is a follicle and the other is a sudoriferous pore (sweat). The pilosebaceous duct is the entire follicle  with the hair, hair shaft, sebaceous gland (oil gland) and the duct or canal to the surface. The hairless sebaceous follicle is the main type of follicle involved in acne. Bacteria in the follicles are anaerobic ( this means they cannot live in the presence of oxygen. When the pore is blocked oxygen can not reach into the bottom of the pore because they are blocked. This results in p. bacteria sebum can irritate the follicles and causes inflammation.

As bacteria and inflammation grow pressure is built up and is exerted on the follicle wall. If it ruptures it becomes infected and the debris spills out into the dermis which cause more breakouts. That is also why you see more breakouts around the same area. Also if you pop one you can cause the debris to spread to the other follicles causing more breaking outs.

So that's why again, do not touch any breakouts!!!!!!!!

Papules are red, inflamed lesions caused by this process. Papules can become more infected and pus develops, causing pustules that are filled with the dead white-blood cells that fought the infection.  Let your body do its job! Leave them alone!

Now there is cystic acne, which are nodules made up of deep pockets of infection. Skin develops hardened tissue around the infection to stop it from spreading bacteria, which can lead to both depressed and raised scars from damage to the dermal tissues.  This type is usually treated by physicians.

With that being said there are some treatments we can do to help this type in combination with medications from the doctor. Also learn about some of the triggers that can cause these acne breakouts as well.

I am going to post some of these for you. Sometimes it takes time to learn about your triggers but modifying your diet and daily habits will help. This is coming from someone who dealt with cystic acne that has been clear for 3 years now. 


Okay, so now we know a little about blackheads, whiteheads and acne.  Next, I am going to give you some triggers for acne and tips to help keep your skin clear of blackheads and whiteheads. 


ACNE TRIGGERS 


~
Stress:  Stress secretes more adrenalin.  (Your Adrenal glands respond to stress, and produce extra hormones.) 

~Products:  Skin Care products that are comedogenic (meaning they are clogging to the pores)

~Climate:  Sweat, dirt and debris left on the skin without proper cleansing.

~Environmental: Internal factors are smoking (asphyxiated skin lacks oxygen, also clogs pores & wrinkles), External factors include pollutants.

~Friction: Pressure from rubbing or touching the face, phone use, wearing hats, dirty pillows, and of course make-up brushes that are not clean.

~Medications: Such as birth-control pills and steroids.  Patches and marijuana will also affect the body and are known to irritate the skin. 

~Hormonal changes: Such as birth control pills, premenstrual changes, pregnancy and menopause can lead to inflammations in women. Also in men, high levels of testosterone can increase oil production. Young teens have this as well at the on set of puberty. In the first trimester pregnancy causes more flare up due to more testosterone levels.

~Certain foods: Salt, MSG, kelp, cheese, processed & packaged foods, ( especially fast foods), minerals obtained from ocean source found in vitamins can all irritate skin, also shrimp (iodine found in ocean sourced foods) seafood can be a big trigger for acne clients.


What you should do, is introduce into your diet are fresh vegetables, fruits and up your water intake. WATER will help cleanse the skin as well as the body!

Add vitamins A, B complex, C and E into your routine. Use oil free and noncomedogenic products. Practice stress reduction, such as working out, including yoga. Have regular facials once a month to Exfoliate the follicles.


GOOD CHOICES FOR ACNE:

Benzoyl Peroxide Foam Cleansers - Releases free radical oxygen that kills bacteria, sterilizes the follicle.

Salicylic Acid Cleansers or  Salicylic acid Chemical Peels - Sloughs old cells and keeps pores open. Also dissolves oil in the pore beta- hydroxy acid is oil soluble.

AHA & BHA Cleansers - Sloughs old cells help to clear impactions.

Tea tree oil - You can apply to skin and rinse off after five minutes. This is used as an antiseptic. Used as spot treatment. You can purchase from a health food store. 

Masks - Sulfur masks exfoliate the skin and heal and dry blemishes. Enzyme masks help exfoliate the skin as well. Clay masks are recommended twice a week. 

*Moisturizers & sunscreen are still needed just use oil-free.


I HOPE THIS HAS HELPED YOU TO UNDERSTAND ACNE A LITTLE BETTER. IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO POST COMMENTS OR EMAIL ME @  juliecanoutas@me.com

Sunday, November 6, 2011

What is microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion also known as microderm, is one of the most effective anti-aging treatments you can get. Microdermabrasion is a form of exfoliation it softens lines, wrinkles and helps smooth coarsely textured skin. 


Other benefits from microderm treatments are decreased appearance of scarring and superficial hyper-pigmentation ( also known as age spots). Microdermabrasion also makes it easier for skin care products like serums, moisturizers, or even chemical peels to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. 


How is microdermabrasion performed? An esthetician will clean & analyze the skin. If there are no contraindications she will begin the treatment. Which will include using a diamond tip microdermabrasion machine or a crystal microdermabrasion machine. 


I prefer to use the diamond tip because its less messy and I feel more effective, also its is eco friendly. The diamond tip wand is a hard tip with tiny diamond flakes (on the tip that comes in contact with the skin) that in combination with the vacuum suction abrades the skin pulling the dead skin cells, oils, and other debris into a filter. Typically you will need a series of 6 treatments about 2 weeks apart. 


You will see a nice glow to your skin after our treatment plan as well as diminished fine lines & wrinkles. 


MAKE SURE TO ALWAYS APPLY SUNSCREEN AFTER YOUR TREATMENTS & ANYTIME AFTER WHEN YOU ARE EXPOSED TO THE SUN! TAKE CARE OF YOUR NEWLEY RESURFACED SKIN!




What conditions does microdermabrasion treat?


Sun-induced pigmentation, melasma, age spots


Whiteheads and blackheads


Fine lines and minor wrinkles


Acne and blemishes


Enlarged/clogged pores


Flaking and dry skin


Excessive oiliness


Scar and callus reduction


Blending lasered and non-lasered areas after laser skin resurfacing






Contraindications to microdermabrasion :


Active, uncontrolled or brittle diabetes

Viral lesions, Herpes Simplex, Shingles

Eczema of Seborrheic dermatitis

Rosacea

Oral blood thinners

Skin cancer and auto immune disorders such as AIDS or HIV


Vitiliago

Telangectasis

Visible, broken blood vessels

Sunburned skin